Quality Equipment Sold Worldwide For Your Convenience
DEAR JOHNNY & MIKE
Frequently Asked Questions from our Service Department

Toll Free Service & Parts Number 888-212-7715


Customer Service

The cornerstone of any business is Customer Service. Ours is no exception. When distributors or customers call us they always find EASTEY Employees to be courteous and efficient - but above all knowledgeable. We take pride in our company and aim to please. Below are questions and answers that have past over time. It is very informational if you own Eastey Shrink Packaging Equipment.

 


 

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FROM PREVIOUS NEWSLETTERS

Dear Johnny: I have an electrical component that is not working. What is the best way to check to see if it is bad?

Answer: If you have voltage at the component and the component is not working, it is bad. But if you are not sure what the voltage is supposed to be or you want to check the contacts of a component or check for a broken wire, then you can do a continuity test (checking for ohms) with a multi meter. Make sure your meter is working properly. Put your meter to ohms, touch both leads together. Meter should read 0 with a digital meter. With an analog meter the wiper should go all the way to the right. Always disconnect both ends of the wire, same with a set of contacts or a coil of component, disconnect all wires.

Dear Mike: I would like to perforate my film but my sealer has no pin perf system, what are my options?

Answer: We have a pin perf system that is easily installed on Eastey Equipment. We also have tabletop versions that would work for a lot of other brands. Even if you have an existing pin perf on your Eastey sealer, you can put another pin perf assembly on the same shaft for even more air evacuation.

Dear Johnny: I would like to learn more about Eastey Equipment. Is there any kind of training seminar?

Answer:. Yes! This is a hands on training for service. The 1st day consists of general information on Eastey Equipment, basic set up and running different products and films and some hands on. The 2nd day the John Belden will go through the technical side of Eastey Equipment. The technical end of this is not a classroom.  If you are interested in more information, contact John Belden at 800-835-9344.

Dear Johnny: My parts book has the head return cylinder as part # EAST0439. Is this the correct part number?

Answer: No. The correct part number is EAST0461. You probably have an older parts book. The most recent one is revised 1/1/99. We update our parts book yearly. We are in the process of revising our parts book, which is due to be distributed very shortly. If you would like one or did not receive one please call 888-212-7715, ask for John or Mike and we will gladly send you one.

Dear Johnny: I have a part number, but I have no idea what piece of equipment it is for?

Answer: The first part of the part number is the secret:

1st Part of #

Machine it is used on. (However, the part may be used elsewhere).

Our spare parts price lists are broken down per machine, color coordinated and also have a numerical list at the back. If you do not have one please let us know and we will gladly send you one.

Dear Mike B.:  I have a part that went bad on my machine. Is it under warranty? What is your policy?
Answer: Our equipment has a 1 year warranty and you will need the serial number to determine if it is under warranty. Our policy is we will send you the new part free of charge however, you are responsible for any air charges. We will need a P.O. number for the charges or a Fed-Ex number works also. After you receive the new part the old part needs to be returned to us so we can get credit for it. No R.A. number is needed. Please put Attention John and send it to this address:
Attn: John
Eastey Enterprises
21480 147th Ave. North
Rogers, MN  55374

NOTE: A copy of the packing slip sent back with the old part would help immensely.

Dear Johnny:  My conveyor does not run on my tunnel. I opened the electrical board to check the fuses and they are good. I'm getting no voltage to motor. I'm getting 220 volts to the board but the red light is on. What's the red light for?

Answer: #9; #9; In normal operations this red light is not on. When the red light is on this means the motor is trying to pull more amps than the board is allowing. A couple of things could be wrong. What you would need to do is, disconnect the motor's drive chain. Turn power on and see if light goes off and motor runs. If this does not happen chances are your motor is bad. If the motor runs this does not rule out a bad motor. Grab the conveyor and turn it over by hand. There should be no binding and conveyor should roll smoothly. If motor runs and there is no binding of conveyor, chances are your motor is weak and will not run under a load. The second one is next to wires 21 & 22 (D.C. voltage to motor) on D.C. board there is a square plug in resistor. We call this plug in a horsepower resistor. This on occasion may go bad. We have 2 resistors, A.35 that ohms out at .5 and A.1 that ohms out at .3. If a ohm meter is not available with a piece of wire you can jumper across the terminals that the resistor plugs into. If the motor runs the resistor is bad.

Dear Mike: When we call in for parts, is the price you quote our cost or our cost less 20%?

Answer: No, the price we quote is your cost. Remember we do have a $25.00 minimum parts order. Also, you can pay for your parts order with your American Express, Visa or MasterCard.

Dear Johnny: What can we do? We need a part next day aired out and I, the service man, am out in the field and can't get you a P.O. until tomorrow, but, I need the part immediately.

Answer: Charge it to a credit card.

Dear Mike: If we need parts or service, what is the fastest way to reach those departments?

Answer: Call 1-888-212-7715 or 1-763-428-4846. These numbers will bring you to the office where Service (John) - Parts (Mike & Garrett) are located.

Dear Johnny: I have a defective part to return for warranty. I know my company will be charged for the warranty replacement part unless this defective part is returned. Where do I return the defective part to?

Answer: Return parts to:
Eastey Enterprises
Attn: John Belden
21480 147th Ave. North
Rogers, MN  55374
Make sure you talk with John before returning the part.

Dear Johnny: I would like to learn more about Eastey Equipment. Is there any kind of training seminar?

Answer: Yes. About every 3 to 4 months we do have a training seminar that lasts 2 days. This is a hands on training for sales and service. The 1st day consists of general information on Eastey Equipment, basic set up and running different products and films. The 2nd day the sales and service are split up. Scott Carlson will take anyone in sales and talk about specific applications, price lists and general nomenclature on Eastey Equipment. John Belden will take anyone in service and go through the technical side of Eastey Equipment. The technical end of this is not a classroom. This is a hands on training. If you are interested in more information, contact Scott Carlson at 800-835-9344.

Dear Mike: My parts book has the head return cylinder as part # EAST0439. Is this the correct part number?

Answer: No. The correct part number is EAST0461. You probably have an older parts book. The most recent one is revised 1/1/99. We update our parts book yearly. We are in the process of revising our parts book, which is due to be distributed very shortly. If you would like one or did not receive one please call 888-212-7715, ask for John or Mike and we will gladly send you one.

Dear Johnny: My conveyor mesh belt on my tunnel is loose and I'm out of adjustment on the Idler screw. So I need a new belt?

Answer: Not really. You can cut a couple of links out and splice it back together, but you will only get away with doing this once before replacing the belt. Splice links are available at no cost, and so are instructions for splicing and can be faxed to you.

Dear Mike: Why doesn't Eastey put power cords on your machines??!!

Answer: Due to various electrical codes and UL regulations, power cords are not installed on our machines. Except EM1622-110V. All machines should be hooked up by a qualified technician for safety and insurance reasons.

Dear Johnny: I installed a new conveyor motor in my shrink tunnel. How do I know I have the proper voltage going to the motor?

Answer: All Eastey conveyor motors are rated at 90 volts D.C. With the speed pot on the dash set at 100% you should have 90 volts D.C. going to the motor. You can adjust the voltage by turning the minimum and maximum speed pots on the red D.C. control board (located in the lower left hand corner). You may find about 110 volts D.C. applied to some of our conveyor motors. That is because on all our tunnels (except Model ET1608) according to the manufacturer's recommendations, you can apply 110 volts D.C. without harming the motor. Model ET1608 cannot have more than 90 volts D.C. If you find that with the maximum speed pot turned all the way counter-clockwise and you cannot get down to 90 volts D.C. you can put a jumper from terminal A+ to B. This will allow you to get 90 volts D.C. or less.

Dear Mike: My set point on my tunnel is 320 degrees and it will only heat up to 290 degrees. What is my problem?

Answer: First, check to see what your machine is rated for on the serial plate. Then check the incoming voltage to the machine. If your machine is rated at 220 volts, and your incoming voltage is 208 volts or less, you have two ways to solve this. One way would be to install a buck-boost transformer, or, the easiest and most inexpensive way would be to install a 208 volts rated heater bank. This applies to most of our single phase systems. (ET1610-48 or smaller).

Dear Mike: I keep breaking my head return springs. Is their anything else I can use in place of the springs?

Answer: Replace your springs with a head return retro fit kit, Part # SUB00047!! This retro fit kit will work on all Eastey model sealers and some models of Weldotrons. You will get a smoother down and return stroke, making it a better piece of equipment for your customer.

Dear Johnny:
I have a EM28TK Hot Knife Duoseal ®. My side seal is good, but on my front seal, on the left hand side, the seal is weak and not cutting all the way.

Answer: This is probably a pressure problem. On the Duoseal® systems the seal bars are mounted by 5/16" threaded rod. Loosen the nut on top of the cross over bar, then turn nut under cross over bar 1/2 turn, retighten nut on top of crossover bar. This will increase your pressure without having to adjust lower magnets or lower seal pads.
NOTE - You cannot make major pressure adjustment by this method, only minor adjustments.

Dear Mike: My tunnel does not heat up. I think it is the temp controller. Is there a simple, quick check I can do to see if it is the Chromolox controller?

Answer: Yes. Shut power down first. Remove wire #13 on Pin 1, and wire #9 on Pin 2, tie wires together. Turn power on, turn heater bank switch on, CR2 should energize and tunnel should heat up. Turn power off, and replace with new temp controller, our part #ETC00001.
NOTE - This also can be done on Tenor temp, wire #13 on Pin 13 and wire #9 on Pin 14.

Dear Mike:
Where do I return parts for warranty ?

Answer:
EASTEY Enterprises, Inc.
21480 147th Ave. North
Rogers MN  55374

To make it easier to return parts for credit, send a copy of packing slip or warranty slip along with a description of what's wrong with parts or just returning for credit. There will be a 20% restock charge on returns that were purchased.

Dear Johnny:
Our customer wanted the head to go up only a few inches, instead of the way it was designed. So they loosened the arm castings from the machine and when they retightened them, the arm castings were pushed closer together than they should have been which caused, not only the head to be out of square, but the compensator that goes through the front seal bar and arm casting to bend and pinch. So we drilled a bigger hole in the arm casting. How do we now set up the machine to get good seals? From Confused Customer

Answer: Dear Confused Customer:
1st - NEVER, EVER try to solve a problem by drilling on an arm casting, seal bar, or frame. 2nd - try to teach your customers to call you - before they start major machine changes. 3rd - bring the machine back to stock set-up and use it the way it was designed to be used, and you will get good seals. Remember - altering equipment voids the warranty.

Dear Johnny:
I just bought an Eastey EM16T Sealer. Instead of the polyethylene based film I used before, I am now using a polypropylene based film. I'm having trouble getting a consistent cross seal. The first seal looks good but the rest of the seals open up in the tunnel. Also, the seal wires are smoking a lot each time I make a seal. After about fifteen minutes of use, the seal pads have a sticky poly buildup which my operators must clean off. WHAT IS CAUSING MY PROBLEMS? From Smoking Customer

Answer: Dear Smoking Customer:
You need film clamps. Polypropylene based shrink films seal with very, very short wire contact time. Film clamps are designed to press both layers of film together against the seal pads to keep the sealing wires from touching/cutting film prematurely. After each seal is completed, the seal wire starts to cool. However, the wire is still hot enough to cut film for several seconds. Without film clamps to keep the sealing wire from prematurely touching the film, extra cuts are made in the film above the seal area. If the film layers are not pushed together against the seal pads, the wire will make contact with the top layer of film making small cuts as the wire slides against the film. These extra cuts cause you weak or broken seals. The first seal will be good because the wire is cold when it prematurely touches the film. However, on subsequent seals, the extra cuts made by the exposed wire will cause the film to split in the tunnel and you will think it was the seal which broke. Your Eastey distributor can retrofit your sealer with the proper film clamps. All Eastey seal heads are drilled and threaded for film clamp installation. The most important variable is sealing olefin films on an L-sealer is seal pressure, (please refer to your manual for seal pressure adjustments).

The other problems you mentioned were wire smoke and poly buildup on the pads. These problems relate to a combination of seal pressure, wire heat and dwell time adjustments. As with all polypropylene shrink films, they require even seal head pressure and full wire penetration to make a proper seal. The smoking sealer is a very simple problem to solve. All film will smoke if enough heat is applied to the seal wire. Wire temperature is peaking as the arm is releasing from the seal pads. To stop smoke, increase dwell time in tiny increments until smoke is eliminated. Dwell time should be very short. If you increase dwell time and the film sticks to the pad again, again lower heat until the bag is released. The proper balance between heat and dwell is very simple to reach. Both should be as low as possible. If you properly manipulate time, temperature and pressure all olefin films should seal properly on your Eastey sealer.

Dear Johnny: I recently purchased an Eastey sealer. We didn't wait for the distributor to install the machine. We started it up ourselves. Everything looks & works great except one problem, the seal doesn't seal on the left side of the front seal bar. From Confused Customer

Answer: Dear Confused Customer:
Please let me unconfuse you. It sounds like your machine needs basic start up. Turn off the power, bring the head down as if you were making a seal. The lower seal bars need to be brought up to meet the upper seal bar. There should be no air gap between the upper and lower seal bar. The lower magnet will also need to be raised, there should be a dime spacing between the upper and lower magnets. Your problems should be solved. If not please call or write back.

Dear Johnny: This question is on standard M & T sealers. My conveyor timer doesn't work.

Answer: (Trouble Shooting Hint) Unplug dwell timer and plug dwell timer into conveyor plug, then press conveyor limit switch. If your conveyor works then the original conveyor timer is bad.

Dear Mike: What type of seal wire do we use?

Answer: Nichrome Seal Wire - 19 gauge 1/2 hard. Part #EAST-203

Dear Mike: My tunnel is not heating up. It heats up to 280 degrees, but the set point is at 300 degrees.

Answer: Your voltage input should match the voltage rating of the machine. Example: if your input is at 204 volts your machine should be rated at 208 volts or if your input is at 217 volts your machine should be rated at 220 volts.

Dear Johnny: I have recently changed to a smaller product. Now some of my product is falling in between the rollers.

Answer: Our standard spacing on our rollers is 1 1/2" center to center. We have what we call a high density roller kit that will decrease you center to center spacing to 1", which leaves 5/8" between rollers.

Dear Mike: My machine was set-up recently. It was running fine - now the conveyor works but not the dwell.

Answer: Here are some simple troubleshooting hints:

A)If magnets are grabbing the upper seal head, but releasing immediately:

l)Check to see if dwell timer has been turned down (some polyolefins require about 1 to 11/2 seconds dwell).

2)Check to see if you are in the normal mode and not in poly mode (economy sealers have no poly/normal switch - model EM1622)

B)If magnets are not grabbing upper seal head at all:

l)Hold the metal part of a screwdriver over the top of magnet. Push and hold pulse limit switch, then the screw driver should be pulled to the magnet.

2)Check magnet gap with seal head resting on lower seal pads. There should be about a dimes worth of gap.

3)Check to see if pulse limit switch is being pushed in when seal head is above lower seal pads about 1/4". Any adjustment is made by turning the actuating bolt in or out then tighten lock down with nut. If this does not work, consult your distributor.

Dear Mike: On my hot knife Duoseal® machine the plastic is sticking to the inserts. What's wrong?

Answer: What did you use to clean the inserts? If you used anything abrasive like a wire brush, Scotch Brite pad or popsicle stick, you just scraped the coating off the inserts and you will have to purchase new inserts. The best thing you can use to clean inserts off is the scrap plastic you cut away. Just ball it up and wipe off. Do this when the seal bars are hot.

Please write 'Dear Johnny' at Eastey Enterprises, Inc.,
with your service questions
and we will print it with an answer.

For the distributor in your area contact Eastey Enterprises, Inc.

Customer service is our number one product!
If you have questions, suggestions or comments please let us know!


    CONTACT US:

EASTEY SHRINK PACKAGING EQUIPMENT
21480 147th Ave. No.

Rogers, MN 55374

 

MAIN OFFICE 763-428-4846
EQUIPMENT SALES
______________
800-835-9344

equipment@eastey.com _____________________________  

PART SALES 888-212-7715
SERVICE 888-212-7715
FAX ROGERS 763-428-8361
e-mail eastey@eastey.com
PARTS e-mail parts@eastey.com

 


 [HOME] [PRODUCT INFO] [QUOTE PAGE] [FAQ] [NEWSLETTER] [ABOUT SITE] [BUYER'S GUIDE/CHARTS] [HISTORY] [INTERNATIONAL]


Copyright © 1996 Eastey Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved.
URL: http://www.eastey.com